Italy Part Three - The Colosseum, The Pantheon, Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore - Rome

I once again am robbed of sleep as I wake six hours before my alarm. I attempt to soothe myself with breathing exercises and a hot drink, without finding success. I give up and decide on melatonin, although I only have five hours remaining. Once I wake, I force down two cups of heavily creamed and sugared coffee with my chocolate muffin, ready to seize the day. I contemplate a third cup, but decide against it due to my distaste for the drink. We take a tour van down to see the Colosseum, which looks large on the outside, though it is actually much larger from within.

To understand the origins of the Colosseum, we must understand what happened before it was built. It all began after the suicide of Nero, the Roman ruler for 14 years, and the final emperor of the Julio-Claudian dynasty. Rome was deep in civil war, facing unrest with four new emperors rising to power with the frequency of the rising sun in various parts of Rome. That all changed when Emperor Vespasian won the civil war and put a heavy emphasis on promoting public welfare, restoring stability within Rome.

Prior to his death, Emperor Nero owned a beautiful palace near the Colosseum. Where the arena stands today, sat a private man-made lake and sprawling gardens. However, Emperor Vespasian of the Flavian dynasty found this to be a waste, especially when the people of Rome were so in need of a lift in spirit. So, in 70-72 A.D, he commissioned the Colosseum (then called the Flavian Amphitheater) to be built in its place. After only eight years of construction, this large stage-like building was revealed to the public as a gift to the Roman people. When it was first opened by his son, Titus Vespasian, the Colosseum was celebrated with 100 days of games.

Archeologists estimate that in its full glory, the Colosseum could seat roughly 85,000 people. Very similarly to today, the over 80 entrances to the arena were marked with Roman numerals in order for guests to find their assigned seating. Once inside, a number of shows could take place, ranging from gladiatorial combat, animal hunts, public executions, re-enactments of famous battles, mythological dramas and shows, and even mock naval battles in rare instances when they removed the wooden flooring to fill the arena with water.

While many deaths occurred within the arena, history shows no actual evidence that the public executions were done to loyal Christians. Some Christians may have died within the Colosseum at one point due to the nature of the games within; however, there is no evidence that this was linked to persecution or public execution. This widespread, unfounded myth became linked to the Colosseum in the 17th century, solidified by Pope Benedict XIV. There have been many accounts of martyrs written centuries after the games; though these stories have been rejected by historians as the period details and events described do not align with the evidence of what we know to be true.

Unfortunately, as the Roman Empire began to decline in the 5th century, and the arena began to decay from many years of use, it was decided that continuing shows within the Colosseum was too expensive. Once the arena fell out of style, builders began using the landmark as a quarry, repurposing the stone for their own needs. Many of the stones from the Colosseum were taken and used to build churches such as Saint Peter’s Basilica within the Vatican.

Despite its untrue nature, it was the belief that the Colosseum represented Christian martyrdom that saved it. When Pope Benedict XIV cemented the myth, he decreed in 1749 that the Colosseum was a sacred site because of the events that (supposedly) occurred there. After the decree, various popes began commissioning builders to restore the arena to its original glory.

Presently, with shows of blood and death no longer taking place, the floors underneath where animals are kept for the bloodbath is on full display, appearing as a small labyrinth. The walls are huge, and I learn that gladiators did not often fight to the death, as they were expensive to train. Gladiators were commonly seen as Rome's top athletes, such as football or soccer players today, though this didn’t mean they had high social standing. Most gladiators were slaves or serious criminals who had opted to fight in the arena in favor of a death sentence. There was the possibility of being killed, but usually, if they were injured, there was a nearby hospital in their quarters where they would receive care. Death was not a guarantee, which made becoming a gladiator the favorable option for these individuals.

If a gladiator was severely injured in the arena, then it was up to the emperor to make the call whether they lived or died. History favors emperors who commonly spared Rome’s favorite heroes to fight another day. This was the better option both for the crowd who wanted to see the gladiator fight again, and the master who had spent many resources training and sponsoring the athlete.

When a gladiator felt that he was destined to lose and could not continue the fight, he could fall to his knees and beg for the mercy of the crowds. If the crowds took pity on the soldier, it was wise for the emperor to heed their request to boost his own public reputation. However, if the emperor felt that the player had not fought honorably or was widely disliked, he could give the signal to the victor to end his life.

After the games, the “gods” took over in the form of two men. One dressed as Charon, the ferryman to the underworld, the other as Mercury, messenger to the gods. Mercury would poke and prod at the dead with a red-hot piece of metal to cement their death. If there was any life left, Charon would wield a large mace into the head of the soon-to-be deceased. Once all bodies were confirmed lifeless, the corpses were carried from the arena through the Porta Libitinaria. A singular gate thought to be watched over by Libitina, the Roman goddess of funerals and death. This gate was only used for the singular purpose of removing the dead, transporting their bodies to the spoliarium beneath the arena, where the heroes were stripped of clothing, armor, and weapons to be given to the newest recruits in the games.

But what happened if the gladiator won? After winning multiple fights, a gladiator was allowed to walk free with a hefty cash prize. From frequent excellence in the arena, they gained a Rudis, a wooden sword meant as a status symbol, showing that they were retired and were now a free man. Once free, many gladiators continued to work in the arena as trainers, managers, or referees for future games.

Traveling through the ruins, we exit into the city down many roads to the Pantheon. I did not realize that not only is the Pantheon so maintained, but it is also located in the center of the Piazza della Rotonda, also known as the Square of the Pantheon. The streets are shockingly busy with not only those here to view the timeless building, but also those who are shopping, eating, or simply traveling from one place to the next.

The inside is absolutely gorgeous, with more statues and a huge domed ceiling. The oculus in the center provides enough light to illuminate the entire space, making the marble-coated interior feel excessively large and grand. Funny enough, because this hole is not covered, when it rains, rain enters the Pantheon as well. Though, because of carefully hidden drainage holes in the mosaic marble flooring, this does not pose a problem. For 1300 years, the Pantheon held the title of the largest dome in the world. This title was passed to Florence’s Cathedral in 1436, and has been moved several times since. However, the Pantheon still holds the record for the largest concrete dome suspended without reinforcement.

Historians estimate that the original Pantheon was built between 29-19 B.C. by Marcus Agrippa, son-in-law and right-hand man to Emperor Augustus. Unfortunately, it burnt to the ground without a trace in 80 A.D. After it was rebuilt, it burnt down again in 110 A.D. when it was struck by lightning. Thankfully, the third and final pantheon constructed by Emperor Hadrian between 119 - 128 AD still stands for viewing today.

But what is the Pantheon? In its original purpose, it is believed that it was intended to be a temple, used for worship of the Roman gods. This theory is supported by the word Pantheon, which has Greek roots, meaning all (pan) gods (theos). But this theory is unconfirmed, and many disagree, citing the structure's size as the meaning behind the unique name. Furthermore, Romans did not commonly build temples dedicated to more than one deity, making the claim that it was intended as a “temple to all gods” somewhat unbelievable.

Since it was considered a pagan temple, the Pantheon was closed off in 399 A.D. and abandoned for over two centuries. Then in 608 A.D., Emperor Phocas gifted the building to Pope Boniface IV, who claimed it to be a church dedicated to S. Maria ad Martyres (Saint Maria and the Martyrs), which continues to be its current use today.

Once we have finished viewing, we walk thirty-five minutes to the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore, also known as the Papal Basilica of Saint Mary Major, where Pope Francis is buried. Despite the length being shorter than yesterday, it feels one hundred miles longer by the rate at which my feet throb.

We enter the beautiful Basilica, past a statue of Jesus at the door whose hands are polished brass by the many people who touch them on their way inside to worship. This basilica is one of the four papal basilicas of Rome, and exists as the largest and oldest of twenty-six churches dedicated to St. Mary within the city. Aside from its largeness, this church is considered the most important church of Mary due to the five pieces of sycamore from Jesus’ manger, along with the cloth used to clothe him as a baby, that are held under the altar.

According to legend, in the year 352, during midsummer, Saint Mary came to Pope Liberius and a wealthy Roman couple, asking them to build a church “in the presence of snow” and donate all earthly possessions. Despite the summer’s heat, the couple set forth and found the snowy Esquiline Hill where they would build the church. This church would later perform the very first Christmas Midnight Mass, leading in a tradition held by many today.

We wait in line to see the marble tomb with golden lettering “Papa Francisca” written overhead. Pope Francis uniquely did not want to be buried in Saint Peter’s Basilica in the Vatican. He was known as the people’s Pope, and even in death, he wanted his body to be available to the people of Rome. The basilica is absolutely stunning, and I can't help but note that there are only eight other popes buried within it. It would seem most popes prefer to be adorned in the gold of the Vatican in the afterlife, which I find unsurprising. This makes Pope Francis the first pope since 1669 to be buried within the Papal Basilica of Saint Mary Major.

After a quick nap, we head out in the darkness to grab a puffed pastry, Mozzarella, and prosciutto. I find a souvenir for my kitchen, which shows the Colosseum on a cutting board, and add it to the collection of fridge magnets I've already purchased. When I return, I take a Melatonin with hopes to avoid another sleepless night.